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Twisting Gully

2012-01-30T10:53:00.001-08:00

South Buttress, Central Buttress and North Buttress of Stob Coire Nan Lochan

This week I'm working for Jagged Globe on their 'Snow and Ice climbing course' - alongside Ed Chard.

Today I was with Fred and Tarik. who aren't new to snow and ice, so we thought we would kick the week off with a look in Stob Coire Nan Lochan, with a view perhaps to do Ordinary Route on Central Buttress, but I thought I saw people on it, so we went for Twisting Gully (III,4****) instead. Ed was in NC Gully with Adrian and Jim. There was a team on Intruder who had a good day, and there was a team on Central Grooves. I also saw Scott out with his team heading for the Summit Buttress.

Fred and Tarik (sorry for a possible wrong spelling) in Twisting Gully

Twisting Gully was in great shape and had seen a lot of action at the weekend. The crux was fairly straight forward with solid neve about.

Fred gaining the ledge on the left wall

The neve was terrific on the entire hill. Even the cornice was safe today and easy.

Tarik on the same move moments later

There was a fair amount of wind today (enough to make sure the Nevis Range Gondola didn't run - causing a great deal of extra walking up and down for some teams today), and there was some transportation taking place.

Fred abseiling in Broad Gully

After a great climb, we had a mini abseil session in a secure Broad Gully. Just before this I had seen Louise Beetlestone lead the fine arete of Dorsal Arete (how many more times will she be up there in her outdoor career!)

Thank you to Fred and Tarik for great company, and I look forward to tomorrow.

Avalanche Awareness With SAIS

2012-01-28T11:52:00.000-08:00

Today Mark Diggins ran an excellent SAIS Professional Development training day for AMI and BMG members. This was a joint event for Jagged Globe and West Coast Mountain Guides. We learnt about all the latest developments with SAIS. SAIS have 5 areas for which they produce avalanche reports. There is a section on the website to study recorded avalanche activity. There are 5 observers blogs to read (eg Lochaber). You can get the forecasts on your mobile, or get daily updates via the new SMS message service, follow them on Twitter or find them on Facebook.

We looked at the latest developments in producing the avalanche reports, teaching avalanche awareness and decision making.

As usual on a Mark Diggins/SAIS training day, I learnt a great deal, and will adopt lots of these developments into my avalanche awareness teaching in the nest 2 months.

The short video shows Mark conducting a burp test,

SAIS CPD Training day with Mark Diggins from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

Thank you to Jagged Globe and West Coast Mountain Guides. Thank you to Nevis Range for the use of their facilities.

Ledge Route

2012-01-26T11:53:00.001-08:00

The start of Tower Ridge

My last day with Dave, we wanted to finish with something on the Ben, either a guided route, or something for Dave to lead, or partly lead himself. We found a great deal more fresh powder snow than I expected. When in Observatory Gully we found that Zero Gully had recently avalanched, and Point Five was showing powder release as well (with a party climbing on it at the time). There were lots of teams heading up onto Tower Ridge, Indicator Wall and Smith's Route areas but, with lots of powder releases on several slope aspects, I didn't think it wise to follow any of these teams. There were several teams heading out of Observatory Gully area for a different plan. We had a quick think, and once we observed avalanche debris high in Coire Na Ciste below Number 3 Gully, we decided to move onto plan E - Ledge Route (II****) - for Dave to lead half of the route. The route was great, and we shared it with several other parties.

Dave navigating off the Ben

Dave wanted to use the last part of the day to practice his navigation - and the clouds obliged this by coming and going with perfect timing. Unfortunately Dave has to get back to work on Monday, but that gives a few more days to play in the snow...

Hopefully nobody was caught out with all the snow movements today.

Buachaille Etive Beag

2012-01-25T11:56:00.000-08:00

Dave

Today, again working for myself , Dave and I went out on day 3 of his 4 day course. Today was day 2 of his winter skills refresher. We headed out to Buachaille Etive Beag for opportunities to look at nav, ropework, snow evaluation and decision making.

We only saw 1 other person, but saw lots of evidence of a winter skills course from yesterday. We had a great day, got to the summit of Stob Dubh, got through everything I wanted to cover and even finished the day with some quality sliding. On a separate note - it was a 4 glove day - my first this winter season!

Winter Skills

2012-01-24T10:11:00.000-08:00

I also met Ken and Scott on Aonach an Nid today

Today I was again out with David Barber on day 2 of his 4 day course. We headed for the Gondola, Aonach an Nid and Aonach Mor to take a look at refreshing his winter skills. There were a few groups out here on the hill today - so not quite all on our own. We met Scott, Ken and a team who had climbed up the West Face.

David battling with a cornice

We did a little ropework and had fun with some tricky cornices - Dave was keen to get involved and get some cornice action. This was part way up the ridge at around 1050m. We were later navigating around the plateau, and Easy Gully had a great deal of fresh unstable cornice build up.

Nearly over

The temp did rise quickly in the morning as predicted, followed by rain, and by the end on the day the snow was soft and there was melting evident everywhere, even at the summit.

South-West Ridge

2012-01-23T11:12:00.000-08:00

Dave with a view down into West Gully

This week I'm on a 4 day course with Dave Barber. Dave works down at Woodlands OEC in South Wales. He was happy to start his week with a quick climb, so we headed up to the Douglas Boulder to see what would be free. We found a team on Fawlty Towers and Alan Halewood on 1934 Route, so we headed for the South-West Ridge (III**) of the Douglas Boulder. Then Ash turned up to take his team up the West Gully and down the East.

Ash down in West Gully leading his team up, as Dave hooks his way up the pitch.

Trident Buttresses

Creag Coire Na Ciste

There were quite a few teams out today on the Ben. Teams on Ledge Route, teams walking up left of the Comb, and a team heading up Slingsby's Chimney, and did I see a team on Hadrian's Wall Direct early in the morning?

Dave high on the ridge

Dave close to the top

Dave and I had a quick look into Observatory Gully, but all we could see was a team of 4 heading for Slingsby's Chimney. We headed down with smiles and started to hatch a plan for tomorrow.

Douglas Traverse

2012-01-20T10:23:00.000-08:00

Ben Nevis Castle Area

Today was the last day of the Jagged Globe Winter Mountaineering course for Wendy, Dan and Tom. I was working with Tony Halliwell. We decided to head for the Ben. The Ben track was covered in snow causing difficulty for everybody. Only one car made it to the top car park. Again the team wanted to look at winter leading, so they could have their own adventures after the course. We chose the Douglas Gap West Gully and Traverse (I*). Kenny Grant and Ben Wallace both led ropes up Fawlty Towers today.

Ben Nevis looks a little more wintery now

Wendy on the left. Tony Halliwell and Tom on the right in West Gully (I*)

We had West Gully to ourselves. There was some fresh snow, but the old neve was still there to make progress easy.

Wendy in Douglas Gap

There were some accumulations of snow in the East Gully, but not enough to cause concern, and it was only patchy. A quick abseil took us down to the neve lower down. From here we could see the bottom of Point 5 Gully and a team of 3 retreating from it's base.

A quick abseil down East Gully

The start on Point 5 on the right hand side. Just after this photo was taken I spotted a team on 3 retreating from the base of Point 5.

So finished a terrific week for the team. They had great fun in the 'Scottish weather', and enjoyed all the climbing. Hopefully they're eager to come back for more...

Dorsal Arete

2012-01-19T12:13:00.000-08:00

Wendy on Dorsal Arete (II***)

Today was day 4 of Jagged Globe's Winter Mountaineering Course. The teams at Jagged Globe mixed up this morning, and I was teamed up with Wendy. Both teams headed for Dorsal Arete, to learn about leading, belay construction, and stance management.

High on Dorsal Arete, the weather still seemed to be holding out for us. We shared the route today with Jamie Bankhead from The Ice Factor.

Dorsal Arete with Jagged Globe from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

Going down - Broad Gully

By the time it was time to go down, Broad Gully was still a safe descent. Some pockets of slab and loose snow had been building, but lots of the old hard neve was still visible.

South and Central Buttresses. Can you spot the 4/5 climbers. There is a team (Adam, Guy and John) high on Unicorn, and to the left on Inclination at the top of the Chimney? (Is this Matt and Ben?)

Everybody had an excellent day, and the weather wasn't as bad as expected.

North Gully

2012-01-18T12:14:00.003-08:00

First pitch of North Gully (II**)

This week I'm working for Jagged Globe. Check out their blog here. I'm working on a winter mountaineering course. I started today, but this is day 3 of their course. Tony Halliwell is directing the course. I was teamed up with Rob and Dan. We headed to the Ben with a few plans, but when we got there we decided upon North Gully, and Tony's team went for Moonlight Gully (II*).

Rob and Dan

There is a little new snow, with a few accumulations in places, but this could easily be spotted and avoided. The neve is again rock hard, and lots of ice still exists. North Gully was in great condition.

Rob in red, Dan in Green

The cornice is large and the exit is very steep - lots of people have tackled it with ice screws

I got to the cornice and tried the direct cornice exit. There are lots of screw holes, where the escape is a 2-3m vertical wall. I didn't fancy it, so went for the 30m R traverse to where the cornice stops.

I went for the traverse to the RHS where the cornice stops

Topping out

Number 4 gully is in easy condition

We quickly nipped down number 4 gully, and so ended a great day. As we were leaving the weather seemed to be on the turn, the winds seemed to be picking up, and more snow was on it's way down.... How will it look by the end of tomorrow? Tony had a great time on Moonlight Gully and came down Number 5 Gully.

Smith's Route

2012-01-16T09:10:00.000-08:00

Smith's Route (V,5****) in the centre of the photo

I met Andy Stotesbury for another day on the Ben, and we went off to check out Smith's Route. The mountain was much quieter than the busy weekend. We saw several teams on Tower Ridge, Tower Scoop, Gardyloo Gully, another team on Smith's after us (sorry for the ice on your heads!), Green Gully and White Line. We got to the climb, and the ice looked terrific, and the neve was solid all over the mountain. I was first up, and led up to the cave. There was almost a path of hooks on the way up. The ice was solid and thick - taking long screws. When I got to the cave - it was dry with no dripping - a day for the softshell!

The ice cave belay at the end of the first pitch.

Andy on the first pitch

Andy arriving at the belay

Andy starting off on the second pitch out of the cave - The Icicle Variation

Andy set off on the second pitch and again there were some brilliant hero hooks. The icicle on the left was solid, and again took long screws. I had time in the cave to watch 2 teams making good progress up Tower Ridge and a team top out on Tower Scoop. Eventually I had to leave the cave and do some climbing - which turned out to be a brilliant pitch.

A team topped out on Tower Ridge

As I topped out I met Scott Kirkhope who was working.

Rock hard neve everywhere

Andy off to the summit

On our way down to Number 4 gully

Glover's Chimney across to Green Gully, Cascade in the middle

We came down Number 4 gully, which is a very easy angle at the moment, and saw climbers on White Line and Green Gully.

Panorama of Ben Nevis summit after Smith's Route from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

Comb Gully

2012-01-14T13:47:00.001-08:00

Lena on the initial snow slopes of Comb Gully

Today I went climbing with Lena on the Ben. We had some plans, but decided eventually to get onto Comb Gully (IV,4***). The neve and ice again were excellent.

Lena at the peg belay, with good ice behind

The start of the easy ground which leads to the top

Tony and Hannah had a good time on The White Line. On our way down number 3 gully, we saw teams on Winter Cascade, Hobgoblin, and Thompson's Route.

Pinnacle Arete

2012-01-13T07:53:00.000-08:00

The light after dawn on the Ben

I met up with Andy Stotesbury again for another headtorch start on the Ben. We decided to go and have a look at the Trident Buttresses. There was a slight dusting of new snow on the black crags, and there was verglas on many rocks.

Looking up Number 5 Gully, showing Carn Dearg Buttress

The mountain was quiet initially, but we saw several teams on Tower Ridge, at least 2 teams in Green Gully, and several teams on Number 3 Gully Buttress.

Andy Stotesbury looking at our route. Creag Coire na Ciste behind.

Douglas Boulder, and the dusted buttresses

Green gully and Number 3 Gully Buttress

Andy starting off on pitch 1 of Pinnacle Arete (IV,4*), at the far right end of the middle terrace, overlooking the steep north wall of the buttress. This turned out to be the crux, at what we estimated to be tech 5/6 and poorly protected.

We did choose Pinnacle arete, even though the book says 'the grade assumes some consolidated snow'. What snow there was, was mostly good neve, the turf was frozen and there was some ice which was good. I used 2 screws on the route, and I was very glad of the bulldog. Going right round the corner and then up to the end of the first pitch turned out to be the, hard at the grade, crux. The rocks were all verglassed, and often the feet were on icy smears. The hooks were good enough, and there was even a jug that you could hold and look at the exposure beneath your feet - to the snow apron below the north face.

Near the end of pitch 1. Looking down the steep north wall of South Trident Buttress. The southern pond of Coire na Ciste, is in the top left corner.

Part of pitch 2

Andy off on pitch 3

From the top of the route looking over to Number 4 Gully, with a couple standing next to the Number 4 gully post.

Another great route on the Ben, and I'd probably give it 2 stars. It was a great chance to hang out at the belays and check out the action in the rest of Coire na Ciste.

Good Friday Climb

2012-01-12T08:06:00.000-08:00

Incomplete Point 5 Gully, Observatory Buttress, Smith's Route, Tower Scoop

I teamed up with Andy Stotesbury to have a look at the Ben today. After a headtorch start we nearly made it first into Observatory Gully, but were beaten to it by Rocio and Ben. They took a look at Smith's Route but decided it was a little thin with water running behind - so they left it, as did we - off to plan b. However, Kenny, Guy and John went up Smith's on the Icicle variation.

Orion Faces, Observatory Ridge, Point 5 Gully

Point 5 is still not there - or Zero, and the lower section of Observatory ridge looks like it almost has zero snow, as does the lower section of NE Buttress.

Smith's Route

Andy Stotesbury with Tower Gap behind

We opted for Good Friday Climb, to give us something from the day, as neither of us had done it before. We found another team on it, who told us about their successful string of climbs over the last week.

The traverse of Good Friday Climb (III***). Andy about to start across the traverse - just unclipping from the in-situ nut.

The second pitch of Good Friday Climb

The whole climb had some great neve, but also a great deal of ice crusted sugar snow. The traverse in particular had that booming hollow sound for the feet, below the ice crust, and the ice was not always good for screws. The main ice after the traverse, however was on the most part good and thick in places.

The summit

Little Brenva Face in Coire Leis

We came down via the abseil posts into Coire Leis to check out the Little Brenva Face.

People were climbing Tower Scoop, Good Friday Climb, a team gearing up below Indicator Wall (climbed?), Smith's Route(?), Tower Gully, Tower Ridge.

Number 2 Gully Buttress

2012-01-09T13:43:00.000-08:00

Black buttresses - a high freezing level - it's on the melt again

The freezing level was supposed to be at about 800m today, so Foxy (Vicky) and I made a plan to go up the Ben and do something. I had a bunch of ideas for plan a, but as soon as the black buttresses came into view, the plans needed to be re-thought, and most of them thrown away. The freezing level was not 800m as I hoped, but more like summit level! Everything was melting.

The Cascade looking very thin and melting. Number 2 gully buttress on the RHS

The plan had to involve some sort of gully line, which still held some ice. Matt, Emma and Ben started their day by doing a quick ascent of The Comb, followed by a descent of Number 3, and then a quick ascent of Thompson's Route. We opted for the remaining ice on Number 2 Gully Buttress (III***).

The bottom of Glover's Chimney

Foxy on Number 2 Gully Buttress - at the peg belay, at the end of pitch 2

I placed 2 screws on the route (both at belays). The ice (what there was) was fairly good (if a little thin), but the snow was soft, or crusty.

The cornices on Number 3 Gully

Winter Chimney has no ice in it

Gargoyle Wall is almost completely black - with a hanging red snap gate from a recent attempt

Thompson's Route - lost a lot of ice from 2 days ago

We had a great time on our climb, and came down Number 3 Gully. Thank you to the person that made the snow bollard.

Thompson's Route

2012-01-07T12:31:00.000-08:00

Douglas Boulder, NW Face. Secondary Tower Ridge area. Italian Climb area. I only saw climbers on West Gully.

The Comb and Number 3 Gully Buttress. I saw a team of 3 disappear round the corner to perhaps Number 2 gully, or something on Comb Gully Buttress

Today I was climbing with Lena. After a delayed start onto the hill, we finally made it up into Coire na Ciste. The wind was occasionally gusting hard, and we had second thoughts about carrying on to our climb at the gear up. We were heading for Thompson's Route (IV,4 ***), with the option to abseil off at the end of the IV section. After putting on lots of warm jackets we decided to go on.

Lena on the lower section on Thompson's Route

The snow was sometimes a firm neve, but sometimes a thin icy crust over poor sugar snow - which pulled easily. There was a little ice too - and we placed a couple of screws in shallow ice. Basically the route was in excellent condition.

The crux had enough good neve to make it straight forward.

Lena exiting the narrows of the chimney

The second team arrive at the belay

A team bailed off Gargoyle Wall, and ended up following us up Thompson's. They joined us at the spike belay.

Lena takes over the lead to finish the route

We decided to finish the route to the top, because thankfully the wind didn't seem to be living up to forecast speeds. Lena took the lead and took us to the whiteout waiting for us. So on the summit we were lucky not to have the gale force winds, but could only see about 40m through the mist. During the climb I heard a crack and dull thunder come from somewhere on Creag Coire na Ciste - concluding it was a piece of a cornice collapsing - we were obviously going to walking down the mountain track to the car park - I wanted to keep a healthy distance from the cornices on number 4 and 3 gullies.

Winter Skills

2012-01-02T11:58:00.000-08:00

Stob Coire nan Lochan today

Working on a Winter Skills course today, we went up to Stob Coire nan Lochan. We left the car park with sleet, but this quickly turned to solid snow after half an hour. The snow started coming down fast, and was being blown around even faster. At times during the day we were up to our knees, waist or even chest in deep snow. Breaking trail was sometimes hard going, but the group got a lot from their first day in full winter conditions.

Stob Coire nan Lochan

A great deal of snow came down today. The approach track from the 20-30 people in the morning was completely covered by the end of the day.

New Year's Eve Ice Factor

2012-01-01T07:54:00.000-08:00

Edwin Mitchell and me staying dry in the Ice Factor

Another poor day outside so it was off indoors for Carsten Wescheboettcher, Anette Boettcher and Lena Brune. At the Ice Factor we met there among others Emma Rowe and Edwin Mitchell. Emma was a blast form the past because I was her tutor at High School in Bromsgrove - a couple of years ago now!

Emma Rowe - only took up climbing a year ago

Emma. After this session at the Ice Factor, she went on to complete her first winter climb today (1st) in the Cairngorms - welcome to the delights of Scottish Winter Climbing....

Welcome to 2012 - Happy New Year. The new year started in Fort William with Heavy rain... and sea level temps of about 7 degrees at midnight!

Winter Skills - Nevis Range

2011-12-19T08:14:00.001-08:00

Digging emergency shelters

Today I was working with Mike Pescod and Donlad King. We took the college students over to the nevis range for the last day of their lightening winter skills course. There is so much snow about. Three weeks ago they were wondering where we would go for the course, and if there would be a winter here, but today there was so much snow about we had to make careful decisions to keep safe. Mike Pescod runs Abacus Mountaineering Coaching and Guiding.

After a great course - back to the Gondola

Beinn a Chaorainn

2011-12-18T10:49:00.000-08:00

Difficult approach through the forest

Today I was working with Mike Pescod and Donald King again. Today we decided to take the college students on a ridge journey - the chosen venue was the East ridge of Beinn a Chaorainn. The days journey started with a route through the forest, and we immediately discovered all the damage form the storm last Thursday - trees everyehere! There was a LOT of snow on the ground which was deep, and difficult to walk through. We took turns to complete breaking the trail. Luckily the students are all very fit. The walk in was definitely my cross training gym session for today.

The surface was firmer after the forest

The sun was out, and I wondered if it was a mistake leaving my sun glasses at home. The fun started as we left the forest behind and we moved toward the ridge - which was looking splendid in it's winter outfit

Still sunny on the ridge

As always the ridge was awesome. The sun was soon hidden by the snow flurries which moved in. We climbed up into the descending cloud base.

The snow had closed in

Very poor visibility navigation

At the top we discussed navigation strategies to move to the southern top. The cornices on the eastern coire rim were massive, as seen from earlier in the day.

Looks like a compass - what's this photo for?!

A happy team

A very happy team on the way down

On the way down we managed to find some snow that we could have some fun in - it's always good to be 5 years old in the snow. Another successful day of winter in Scotland.

Winter Skills

2011-12-17T13:10:00.001-08:00

Students on Fiacaill Coire an t-Sneachda

Today I was working with Mike Pescod and Donald King. We took the College students on their first day over to the Northern Cairngorms. We moved over to the NE aspect of the Fiacaill Coire an t-Sneachda. During our sliding about session we encountered some easily releasing slab on a NE aspect, on the apex of a convex slope.

We made our way up onto the ridge and found an exciting route for the students - day 1 on crampons.

This is Chris

I took a look at 0.5 gully and didn't like the look of it, so I came down the goat track gully.

Goggles on. An awesome day 1

There were lots of climbers about, on a wide variety of climbs - not that I could see much, through the mist. I'm just going on the climbing calls I could hear form the climbs.

Fingers Ridge

2011-12-15T11:21:00.001-08:00

Fluted Buttress

Much less wind was forecast today, so I was excited to have an easy weather day of climbing after being beaten up yesterday, when I was out with Dave. I met up with Hannah Evans, and we drove to the east and made our way up to Coire an t-Sneachda. She had her eyes on Fingers Ridge (IV 4/5 ***). We were happy to find nobody else on it, but there were lots of skiers on the pistes and lots of climbers in the coire. We left our ice screws in the car, but we saw other people placing screws in the ice that was about. I was excited to find that the turf is well and truely frozen.

Hannah on the first pitch

We saw lots of people on the Fluted Buttress, Red Gully and Goat Track gully got lots of accents.

Hannah leading off on the second pitch

I enjoyed the first pitch and found the snow soft in places, but under the surface, and exposed in many places it has formed a solid neve. Hannah joined me and took the rack for a walk on the second pitch.

Hannah after the second pitch

After Hannah's rib over looking Broken Gully, we got onto the wall leading to the large right facing open groove - up to the narrow ridge. This is where I clipped an in situ hex, and later when I said to Han - did you see the insitu yellow hex, she pointed at her harness, and asked 'this one?!'

Han on the fine narrow ridge

Hannah enjoyed the ridge, but was excited about leading through the fingers.

Han dealing with the fingers traverse

The blocks on the fingers are well frozen together, and there was a lot of ice on their far side. Still Hannah managed to find some non-winterised cracks for good cam placements.

I'm on the final wall

Eventually I got what I was looking forward to - the final wall. There are brilliant deep hooks all the way up, and it finished with a horizontal axe torque. What else could you ask for.

Stunning scenery. I learnt today that there used to be 3 fingers

Han on the final wall, concentrating on footwork

Hannah showed good footwork on the way up - always looking down, and rarely at the camera!

Han using a brilliant axe shaft torque in a horizontal crack, and applying nearly full body weight

So it was a brilliant day. The weather was great and lots of people were taking good advantage of it. The climbing conditions were awesome, frozen turf, hard neve, and a day full of hooking..

Honeypot

2011-12-14T11:37:00.000-08:00

Mess of Pottage

So last night, despite the forecast of winds gusting to 85mph Dave Buckett and I planned to meet and go to Coire an t-Sneachda - it was supposed to ease a little in the afternoon. We arrived at the Cairngorm Mountain bottom gate to find that it was closed and all snow sports were cancelled for the day! There was a lot of black ice of the road to the top car park apparently and it would take an hour or more to clear... What to do, we waited.... At about 9.40am the gate opened and we were allowed up - today waiting paid off. Today there were only a few teams of climbers setting off (less than 10 teams), and there was nobody heading for the Honeypot (IV,6**) on the Mess of Pottage. Dave had unfinished business with the crux of this climb form last year, so he wanted a rematch. The wind had other ideas, and there was a ferocious wind on our backs as we walked in, and the gusts accelerated through the coire and spectacularly shifting snow up the faces. We decided to go for it.

Aladdin's Buttress today

Dave coming up to the end of pitch 2 (a stance below the capped roof pitch)

I had the climb up to the crux. I read the guidebook - 'the start of the climb is V,6 with no build-up' - brilliant, let's go. ... It probably wasn't that hard at the start though! So, in 2 pitches, I got us to the stance just below the capped roof, and it was over to Dave.

Dave setting off on pitch 3

The wind was still awful, and as I watched Dave I thought, is it wise to be standing directly beneath him, when stuff flies down at me - but on this occasion everything was rushing up the face in the wind - fast. Whenever Dave released some snow or ice, it shot up and out of sight.

Dave about to start the crux sequence

Finding a good hook

Find more hooks

The awkward crux moves

Dave dispatched the crux and disappeared from sight. I climbed up to the crux and seemed to feel a lack of gravity, the wind seemed to be actually helping me - until I tried to look around and got punished for not wearing goggles - so I placed axes and feet with eyes open, and pulled with them closed to protect my eyes form the blasts of snow and ice - great. I got to Dave who was sat in the full force of the wind, I stepped past him and the wind threw me to the ground. Okay, goggles on and let's got out of here. We stood shoulder to shoulder trying to talk, but had to shout and still I didn't know what he was saying.

A great day, a great climb.

Wavelength

2011-12-11T15:18:00.000-08:00

Lena climbing and Hannah belaying

With a good forecast on the Saturday, Hannah, Lena and I drove over to the N'orries. We got to the barrier which was closed, so we ended up driving up the hill in a convoy and so seemed to walk up the hill in a convoy too. Busy again, lots of climbers out again with such good conditions. We looked for a climb with nobody on, and opted for 'Wavelength' on the Fluted Buttresses, left of Fluted Buttress direct.

Lena leading up pitch 1

As usual the area was busy, with crouds on most of the starred routes. The ice was better than I was expecting, so I was enjoying my sharp picks.

Hannah belaying with Fiacaill Buttress behind

Lena and Hannah made quick work of their pitches, placing good gear and leading confidently.

Hannah making light work of the ice

Hannah coming up to the belay

Hannah about to leave the belay

A good route on a good day with good company. Another 4 months of this please. We happily strolled down the Goat Track to the car park - this time not in a convoy for once...

Bothy Holiday in the Snow

2011-12-07T15:31:00.001-08:00

I was working for UHI at the WHC on the Outdoor adventure Ledeadership course with Dave, Andy and Ben. The students have already been on a mountain bike and canoe exped, and now was the time for the last of the exped trilogy - the walking exped. We headed over to the west coast and the Ardnish Penninsula, planning to camp around the Peanmeanach Bothy.

The snow was down to sea level, but below 300m it was never too deep, to walk easily through.

With the snow down so low, the hills looked like munros. The sky constantly looked threatening..

We took a roundabout route, teaching and testing their navigation.

We were fortunate to get snow taking the visibility down to about 50m. This was the first day walking on snow for some of the students.

We delayed our progress and had a late lunch waiting for sunset and the dark for a few hours of night nav down to the bothy. This area turned out ot be a great spot for all levels of nav training. We arrived at the bothy at 6.30pm.

The next day we set off on day 2. The group were bursting with confidence in their navigational skills and so we set some more difficult nav legs, which they brushed off with ease.

Peanmeanach Bothy

Eigg in the mid-distance and Rum in the far-distance (with snow capped peaks).

The students managed to find a mini crag to have a wee boulder on, in the middle of the day - awesome. This became the highlight of the day - although the scenery was spectacular, and I'll definitely find my wat back here again.

Busy Winter Venue

2011-12-04T11:58:00.000-08:00

Driving to Aviemore from Fort William

So Matt Leggett's last day, before heading down to the balmy 13 degree temperatures of Oxford on Monday. We chose the northern corries again, but the drive there was very exciting as you can imagine with all the snow.

Walking in to Coire an t-Sneachda with Matt and LenaWe didn't know what to climb as a 3, but knew we didn't want to be hanging around in a queue in the cold winds, so we wanted anything that was free.

Looking over at The Seam and Invernookie, I think I could see 6 teams at one point, lots of them queueing. See the people at the bottom, centre on the photo.

There were queues everywhere. We had to change our plans many times as we kept seeing more queues developing. This is Mess of Pottage above.

In the end we found a grade II and sometimes III line up the RHS of the Pottage starting on the Slant. Good fun and sociable.

Walking off

There we go, my van now has nameing on it - but it doeasn't look too permanent and may not last too long...

Another awesome day of fun in the snow.

Winter Climbing

2011-12-03T10:59:00.000-08:00

Matt walking in to Coire an t-Sneachda

We decided to join the weekend masses today and brave the wind in Coire an t-Sneachda. The weather turned out to be okay, and visibility was generally very good. We decided to go to the hopefully sheltered corner of the coire - Fiacaill Buttress.

Mess of Pottage today

Aladdin's Buttress and Fluted Buttresses

Fiacaill Buttress

Matt on an opening pitch of Invernookie / The Seam

We went ot take a look at the Seam, and just at that point it seemed that 3 other teams converged on it, and 1 team abseiled in onto it! So it was time to forget that plan.

Looking over at Fluted Buttress

Some of the crouds on The Seam today. There were at least 4 teams on the route at the same point. One person dropped an axe - missed Matt by 5 metres and landed 10m from me - we managed to get the axe back to the team.

There were still teams queueing as we were walking out of the coire.

We made the obvious move away from the Seam on to Invernookie.

Looking over at the Seam and the constant action of the teams.

Matt enjoying Invernookie. Yesterday he was basking in sunshine in Oxford and walking around in a shirt..

Beaming smile on his face as we head for 0.5 gully.

Lots of snow. At points today when I went into a drift, the snow was up to my thigh.

So my day 1 of my winter is ticked and it was great. However I made the novice errors of not eating enough and allowing my hands to get cold at one point - definitely will correct that tomorrow.

Ben with snow

2011-12-01T04:10:00.001-08:00

Ben this morning

All systems go for the winter 2011/2012 season...

Schmoolz fun

2011-11-29T07:15:00.001-08:00

Dave Buckett using the Schmoolz tools at the Ice Factor.

Dave Buckett and I decided to go indoors again to the Ice Factor, but this time Isi Oakley (Ice Factor Assistant Centre Manager) lent us her 2 Schmoolz tools. So we bottom roped and led up everything we could until our forearms exploded... Awesome fun - Happy days.

I think I'll be buying some for myself... Schmoolz.com

Caving Revalidation

2011-11-27T02:43:00.001-08:00

The entrance to the 'Hell' passage in Longchurn Cave, Ingleborough, North Yorkshire.

The other day was my time to revalidate my caving qualification through the British Caving Association, so off to Yorkshire I went for the 1 day course.

Longchurn Cave

After our intros we had a LCMLA quiz, then set about learning from lots of the caving incidents over the last 5 years, all of which revolved around the theme of water, flooding and drowning. Each incident had learning outcomes for the future, and we looked at group management, risk assessment, and flood avoidance. We visited Longchurn cave to look at some of the issues in more detail, and in context, and to share some common best practice.

At Ingleborough Hall, we used their training SRT tower to look at some vertical caving scenarios, and play with some kit, and practice some techniques including those used in alpine caving - new to me - including some incredibly efficient hauling and rescue techniques.

PETZL Industrial Descender ID S

Woodlands O.E.C.

2011-11-21T08:54:00.001-08:00

Last week I was working for Woodlands Outdoor Education Centre, one of the centres of the Oxfordshire Outdoor Learning service. The other out of county Oxfordshire Centres are Yenworthy Lodge and Kilvrough Manor O.E.C., where I spent several years.

Last week Woodlands had a Primary course and a GCSE PE course running - a busy week for everybody. I worked (played!) most of the time with the visiting Primary School, but also enjoyed a little nav training on the GCSE PE course. The weather was great and I can't remember any rain during the week.

Not my photo - from the Woodlands O.E.C. website

At the beginning of the week I got to play on the climbing tower, high ropes course, Jungle Jim and all the in grounds problems. I tried to get a good photo of the high ropes course, but was busy having too much fun swinging about so here's (above) one from the Woodlands website.

Year 5 and 6 high up in the trees

It was great making learning so much fun for the kids, and helping some of them overcome their fears, although some of them were just dreading caving later in the week!

Wednesday was the mountain walk. We headed for a scramble up the Red Gully then on towards Twmpa @ 690m (which is definitely a mountain when you're only 3ft tall and in year 5!

Towards the top of Red Gully.

An exciting view in the hill mist over the drop down the side of the Black Mountains.

Not far to the top now!

It was actually quite mild for November last week. On the way down the group discovered for the first time in the week, and not the last how much fun mud can be.. I basically had to stop them rolling around in it!

We had to share the top with just 1 other group - who just appeared out of the mist.

On the way down. We managed to find a place where we could do a mini grass slide in our waterproofs. This is the summer equivalent of winter snow glissading :)

On the way to the cave - and we've hit the Welsh RUSH HOUR... Luckily they passed by quite quickly with very minimal sheep road rage.

Porth yr Ogof. This is Chris's group of SUT (soldiers under training) from the SDW (soldier development wing) in Sennybridge.

On to the canoe day now and this is where we had our 'picnic' in Brecon with the Usk on one side and the Canal on the other.

Canoeing is great fun - but is splashing in puddles even better! After the picnic it did seem to be!

So a great week for everybody - everybody is a winner - even the traffic warden - but that's another story!!!

Sron na Lairig

2011-11-08T09:59:00.000-08:00

Sron na Lairig

In winter Sron na Lairig is a great 300m II***. In summer it is still a fun grade II/III scramble (on good rock, but with lots of grassy interludes), in awesome scenic surroundings. Today we had really good dry conditions with only a little wind and lots of atmospheric swirling cloud.

Finding a way up the slab on the RHS to pass a steep band to access the broad platform.

There are initially lots of variations to be had on the route, but often the many crampon marks showed the most exciting line.

No sport climbing bolts to clip on this route - so here's the set of nuts on wire again..

Lots of good quality clean and dry rock today.

We were the only people on the route today, but not the only in the valley - even on a quiet Tuesday there were others about.

The 'Bad Step', which needs negotiation on the NE ridge from Stob Coire Sgreamhach (the high point above) to Beinn Fhada (starting on the RHS above, and below).

Beinn Fhada above with the wind sweeping it's way past.

A mini rocky point which pulls down to a narrow neck - easy with the lack of wind today.

Towards the end of all the fun, with Lairig Eilde behind, and the Allt Lairig Eilde at it's base.

All to soon it's all over, and the day turns into a hill walk back to the road.

Sunset at 5pm

2011-11-07T13:23:00.001-08:00

Sunset over Loch Eil. 5pm today.

Don't forget to pack your headtorch, new batteries and your camera!

Inglis Clark Ridge

2011-11-06T12:49:00.000-08:00

Inglis Clark Ridge on Sron Na Creise was first climbed in summer (Diff) by Dr and Mrs Inglis Clark in 1903. Still with a lack of snow we're climbing winter routes in summer conditions! This climb is a diff in it's own right, but even today with no rain it was still very wet, boggy, soggy, and slippery!

Lena topping out at the end of what would be a great mixed pitch (next month?).

Buachaille Etive Mor opposite Sron Na Creise at the head of Glen Etive.

Looking into Glen Etive.

Trying out my panorama function (not quite perfected it yet).. Each photo takes a 180 degree sweep..

Into the cloud.

Rannoch Moor below the cloud.

The sun setting on a great day.

Roll on the winter freeze so this route will turn into a great ice and mixed route (III***).

Fireworks

2011-11-05T17:00:00.000-07:00

A chance to use my new camera. Awesome.

About 10 rubbish photos for every 1 with a firework in it!

Hill walking Assessment

2011-11-02T14:12:00.001-07:00

Today I was working for UHI (University of the Highlands and Islands) at the WHC (West Highland College) on the ATM (Adventure Tourism Management) 2 Hill walking assessment. I chose Ben Nevis as the venue and so we set out from the top North Face Forestry Commission car park.

After lots of nav legs, micro, macro nav, broken ground, steep ground, emergency scenarios, river crossings, and group management we made our way to the top of Meall an t-Suidhe, where the wind really picked up. After lots of nav relocation we made it back to the bus and the assessment was over - phew. Well done everybody - a good and sometimes excellent performance.

Outward Bound

2011-11-01T11:24:00.000-07:00

Ben Nevis without snow in the background

Today I was working for Outward Bound, Loch Eil. Here you can see we went for a canoe on Loch Eil with Ben Nevis in the background. As you can see there is no snow visible at the moment - it was actually warm today.

Gareth on Scimitar ridge in Glen Nevis.

A panorama of Glen Nevis looking West, from Scimitar ridge.

A panorama looking East.

Avalanche Seminar

2011-10-31T12:43:00.001-07:00

SAFOS is the Snow and Avalanche Foundation of Scotland, and they organised this Avalanche Seminar in Edinburgh, at EICA Ratho. There were educational, informative, sometimes mindblowing, and current thinking presentations from Mark Diggins (SAIS Co-ordinator), Ed Chard (Jagged Globe), John Allen (MBE, Scottish Mountain Rescue), Mark Williams (Research Institute for Sport and Exercise Science) , Dave Mcleod (Professional Climber) and Stefan Harvey (WSL Institute for Snow and Avalanche research).

It was a great weekend and I learnt a great deal. Make sure you look at the SAIS website and keep safe with all your snow sports this winter. Make sure you've considered the avalanche risk, and done all you can to minimise any risk to you and others, before you step on snow this winter...

Buachaille Etive Mor on my way home last night. (Can you spot the rescue helicopter in the sky, after just leaving Curved Ridge - on it's way to Fort William).

El Chorro

2011-10-31T07:43:00.000-07:00

Lena looking for the next bolt

After climbing, the pool is 5 minutes away!

Now back from the Autumn sun search. El Chorro is a great place to go for fun sport climbing. Thank you to Mel and Gary at the Olive Branch, where everybody from Fort William seems to go. In the photo above form the Olive Branch you can see Las Encantadas - a five minute walk!

Glen Nevis With Outward Bound

2011-10-13T11:53:00.001-07:00

This week I had another couple of days with Outward Bound in Glen Nevis.

Today I discovered that my old faithful camera, that has seen me through many battles and scrapes has developed a major problem - the screen no longer works! The photo above shows that if I still point in the right direction it seems to be okay - but maybe I need to start looking at new cameras!!

Bronze D of E Assessment

2011-10-07T13:27:00.000-07:00

Working for Outward Bound Metro, I was assessing a Bronze group from Hyndland Secondary School in Glasgow. We picked all the children up on the Thursday morning and off we headed to the Dunkeld area. When the initial pre expedition checks and formalities were complete, the groups were able to start their expedition. The weather proved to be better than the day before in Glencoe thankfully, and people didn't really get very wet.

After a late arrival for some groups into camp, tents went up, and a welcome hot meal was eaten. As usual, I enjoyed the luxury of my massive Quasar, and a 3 course meal...

The night was clear overnight and so everybody enjoyed a cold night with great visibility of stars. The morning broke dry and so everybody made a good start to their walk. In the distance I could see snow on a peak - so started to think about the onset of winter (and the need to buy winter tyres!).

Eventually everybody made it to the end of their expedition and my group completed their expedition in great style and earned a solid pass to their Bronze expedition... Congratulations - SILVER NEXT ?!?!

Rope Skills

2011-10-05T09:46:00.000-07:00

Walking into awful weather, strong gusting winds and driving rain...

I was working for UHI at the WHC on the ATM course with the second years. They opted for a little ropework today, rather than navigation - so off we go into the bad weather for an adventure in Glencoe.

The team looking after each other on slippery wet rock.

Finally, down we go... Everybody was lowered off, to learn how to lower people but also to experience being lowered rather than being in control with an abseil, so they'll have empathy when they lower their future clients...

Facebook Page and Twitter

2011-09-30T14:48:00.000-07:00

Follow me on Twitter - @MaxHuntercouk. Read my Facebook page at MaxHunter.co.uk

Mamores Expedition

2011-09-30T13:32:00.000-07:00

Andy and Abigail walking on Day 1 of the Exped.

These last 3 days I've been working for UHI at the WHC with first year students on the ATM course. The 6 students I had with me were Kathleen Torso, Britta Dixon, Maddy Landherr, Amanda Streeter, Abigail Goldfarb and Andy Macleod. Kathleen, Britta, Maddy and Amanda are here for the semester from the States - so I wanted to show them an excellent snapshot of the highlands, because it'll be the only expedition they get here. The weather was set so be a mini Indian Summer in most of the UK, but still with showers and strong winds in the Highlands, so we knew we'd be using our waterproofs and planned to camp fairly low and keep out of the wind. Although the college had issued the students with brand new unused Quasars..

Andy doing his navigation early in the day - day 1.

Here are Amanda and Britta - with Ben Nevis looking majestic behind...

Kathleen taking care across a stream.. This is clearly early in the exped, before we all got wet feet after crossing miles of bog and streams.

Britta had decided to pack her roll mat inside her rucsac the night before. She said she had to stand on it to get it in (!) and now needed asistance form Maddy to get it out!

Hilarious!

We eventually chose a campspot and enjoyed the lack of rain or midges. We then had a late after noon navigation session, then a quick break for food, before starting our late evening night micro-navigation session. We eventually got to bed after 10pm.

Andy (showing us his leg prosthetic) and Abigail.

Andy is on an inspiring and truly remarkable road to recovery after losing a lower leg 6 months ago in an accident in Fort William. He is already back to his previous standard on his mountain bike, and is walking with more balance than most people. Later this term he wants to climb Ben Nevis, and at College he's due to continue his paddling and climbing progression. (When we did the kit check and I asked people how many socks they had packed for 3 days, I got the usual answers from most - 2 pairs or 3 pairs, but he laughed as he told me he had 5 separate socks for only 1 foot!).

Watching the sun go down as we put our stoves away before the night navigation.

Day 2 in the rain. Andy leading, being followed by Amanda.

Yes, the sun did come out on day 2.

Sun rising on day 3. The day started dry and warm (the rain found us eventually!).

The sky started to get moody.

As it turned out Amanda loves waterfalls - so we had 20mins of being tourists at Steall Falls and took a million photos - awesome.

We covered the full syllabus required for preparation for their Hill Walking assessment in a couple of weeks time, so good luck to them all. Thank you for great company for 3 days in the Scottish hills.

Outward Bound

2011-09-27T12:47:00.001-07:00

Miss Sarah Hamilton on the 'Travelator'.

Today I was working with Al at Outward Bound Loch Eil. Today was very windy and dashed all ideas of watersports on the loch with the group. However we had an excellent morning in Glen Nevis on Scimitar ridge followed by on grounds activities in the afternoon.

Scimitar ridge was busy today and so several groups get their turn at the exciting scrambling available in Glen Nevis..

Take a look at my FACEBOOK PAGE ...

Wet and Wild DofE for Meg's and Albyn

2011-09-27T11:23:00.000-07:00

Alison talks to Group 2 on day 1 (Victoria, Rachel, Hannah, Sophie, Ailsa, Lucy, Harriet).

This last week I was working for Adventure Expeditions and Alison Culshaw in the Cairngorm National Park (Grampian Mountains). On Thursday we met the girls from Albyn School and St. Margaret's school for girls who were ready to start their Gold Assessed D of E Expedition. After preparation on the Thursday we got things started on the Friday. Above Alison has caught up with group 2 to see how they're getting on. The weather forecast for the 4 days was not good - rain (lots) and wind (lots), but the girls were ready for it all..

A balanced diet - of processed sugar for dessert!

The groups had some doubtful meal choices - but it's important to have some comforts from home to look forward to eating!! We ALL had luxury items in our rucksacs - but mine weren't marshmallows!

Camp site on night 1 for 2 groups.

Everybody got to camp 1 successfully and managed to find some flat ground that wasn't too boggy. The scenery was awesome, but a little windy and wet - day 2 was planned to be the high mountain day for most groups.

St Margaret's Girls choosing exactly where to put their tents for night 1! - Anjumol, Victoria, Isobel, Ashleigh, Charlotte and Emily.

This is where they decided to camp on night 1 - a beautiful spot.

With Ben Alder as the backdrop, you can't go wrong with this as a campspot.

The high ridge along Beinn Bheoil for the Meg's girls on day 2. It was windy and there was only fleeting visibility, but the girls used their training to stay relaxed, on schedule and confident - very impressive - a strong performance.

Meg's making good use of the bivvy shelter for lunch.

Group 2 proudly sitting at 1034m on Carn Dearg - the highest point they have ever reached. They did well to get here - a long hard hillside to climb - seemingly never ending - but a great reward at the summit - the highest point of their lives to date.

Off now to get to their campsite -they got there in under 2 hours from here - well done.

Group 1 - on day 3 wanting to get to camp before the heavy rain hits - Lauren, Lucy, Fiona, Rebecca and Rosie. They were easily in their tents before the heavy rain struck everybody.

The camp spot for group 2 on night 3. They were so comfortable nobody came out to meet me when I said hello! - It was pouring with rain!

Day 4 had some sunny spells. The heavy rain has passed - only showers were left.. (so yes, we did say the girls might get showers this week - but no we didn't tell them to take shampoo!!! - not that kind of showers!!!)

The Megs girls in fine form - only 6km to go.. They gave a really strong performance over the 4 days - everything perfect (except 1 wrong grid reference - we can forget that lol)..

Alison welcomes group 1 at the end of their 4 day expedition.

Everybody was very happy to finally get to the end !!! Group 3 - Fayne, Kim, Julie, Katie, Minty and Ellie.

Group 2 - Victoria, Rachel, Hannah, Sophie, Ailsa, Lucy and Harriet.

Massive congratulations to all the girls. They all worked so hard in such difficult conditions to complete their expedition. The weather was sometimes awful, and the conditions difficult nad everything was wet - but they all stayed strong and pulled it out of the bag. They always lookd after each other and stayed motivated - They have all deserved to pass with flying colours - WELL DONE... Congratulations from Alison and myself...

Hill Walking

2011-09-21T10:50:00.000-07:00

Today I was working for UHI at the WHC in Fort William with the second years on the Adventure Tourism management BA course. Today started their year 2 hill walking module. They have already done a lot last year as well as some winter mountaineering, so today was a reminder of old skills and introduction of some new. The weather was predicted to be awful with winds on the high hills gusting up to 80mph, but as it turned out after a spell of heavy rain, just before noon, it started to settle - so unfortunately they didn't get the full test of personal management, but I did discover that my waterproof trousers - are not!

The day started to clear up earlier than expected.

In the background is Ben Nevis. Apparently there was some type of snow fall in the Cairngorms today - and so it starts :) ... Today I even got my flask out for a hot drink...

The summit of Meall Bhanabhie (327m).

The sun did come out and I even had to borrow some sunglasses for the drive back! It turned out to be a great day.

Marie Curie Cancer Care

2011-09-17T13:15:00.000-07:00

Lots of people on the Ben track today.

Today I was working for West Coast Mountain Guides and we were marshalling the Ben Nevis event for Marie Curie Cancer Care. It was a big day for Marie Curie Cancer Care, but also lots of other charities had their walks today, so it made for a busy hill.

It was a misty day on the upper half of the mountain.

The summit was busy busy. There was a very British queue of people waiting to have their turn on the summit cairn for their photo. The weather nearly cleared on several times - but no, it stayed misty...

Congratulations to all the inspirational people who worked so hard to raise donations for the event, and actually made it to the summit...

It turned into a great day.

University of the Highlands and Islands

2011-09-12T11:03:00.000-07:00

On Monday I was working at the University of the Highlands and Islands, at the West Highland College, in Fort William, Lochaber. I was working on the Higher Outdoor Adventure Leadership course, with the new students that had their induction last week. Today was the start of their Mountain Sport module - but unfortunately the weather was awful so we stayed inside and headed for the Ice Factor to cover the content of the day.

Besides plenty of climbing, they covered an introduction to the new module, a tour of the Ice Factor, intro to awards (MLT), workshops and by the end hopefully they were all buzzing about getting on with their NICAS, CWA, SPA and ML awards, into the future...

Cancer Research UK

2011-09-11T10:22:00.000-07:00

Congratulations to John, Daniel, Katie, David, Tracy, Jason, Tina, Colin, Peter, Andy, Susan, Karen and Chris.

Today I was working with the Cancer Research UK team at the end of their 3 Peaks Challenge. They had difficult weather on Snowdon (the train wasn't running and the cafe was closed), they had attrocious weather in England, and then today - it got worse! The weather forecast was for perhaps gusts of up to 80 mph and prolonged driving rain.

But as it turned out the weather wasn't as bad as expected on the lower half of Ben Nevis. So we quickly made it to the upper half.

On the upper slopes there was the rain and cold but where was that wind?

So we made it quite happily(!) to the summit - well done to everybody...

After the last 3 days of hard effort they hope to raise up to £5000!

A couple of lads had carried an ironing board up the Ben today and ironed a jacket on the summit!

The ironing board on it's journey down.Back in the Ben Nevis Inn they celebrated completing the 3 Peaks Challenge and more importantly raising all that money for Cancer Research UK...

Curved Ridge

2011-09-09T05:33:00.001-07:00

Lena finding Curved Ridge

A day off, so into the hills for something to do on a damp day - scrambling is the answer. A classic - Curved Ridge, always a winner.

The day started with rain, and mist, but this wasn't forecast to stay.

Eventually the sun did come out and the waterproofs could go away, and even the rock dried out, another great day in the hills. The crouds have died out a little, but still Glencoe seemed busy with walkers and tourists...

Adventure Expeditions

2011-09-07T08:46:00.000-07:00

Last week I had an excellent week working on an Adventure Expeditions expedition, supervising 2 groups. The first group below, were under assessment and the second group were on their training expedition. We turned out to be really lucky with the weather - there was a little wind on the last 2 days, and a morning of thick mist and poor visibility but the rest of the time was almost perfect exped weather...

Tears, Joanne, Chris, Irene and Hank.

Assessment team - Joanne Miller, Hank Cheung, Irene Kwok, Chris Fox, Tears (Solayr) Layton-Thomas.


Hank Cheung and Irene Kwok.

Natasha, Lizzie, Claire, Anwen.

Anwen

John Knight chatting.

The training team and me.


Victoria Hawkey from D of E Head Office in Windsor and John Knight assessing the group.

It was good to see John again and to meet Victoria from Head Office. Congratulations to the 2 teams on completing their respective expeditions - a job well done. Now they can go home and chill in a bath - and the training team can book their qualifying expedition!

Red Gendarme, Pointe de Tsalion

2011-08-28T06:21:00.001-07:00

Lena Brune and I made our way up to the Tsa Hut (at 2607m), below the W face of the Pt de Tsalion, on the Grands Dents Chain, overlooking the Arolla valley. For the next day we chose as our objective the Red Gendarme (D-), on the West Face. We also decided to extend our day after the climb, to get to the Bertol Hut (at 3311m), at the southern end of the Grands Dents Chain, via the Pointe de Tsalion, Dent de Tsalion, Aiguille de la Tsa, Aiguille glacier, col de la Tsa, Pt de Bertol, Upper Mont Mine glacier and the Col de Bertol. However this meant that we would have to carry crampons, axe, and a few extra things during the climb - hardly a light sac ascent! Above Lena is seen in the prominent steep Red Gendarme chimney.

Just after this section we found a lone peg on the left, in some solid looking rock. This was reassuring because most of the climb seems to be about to fall down - loose massive blocks everywhere.

The 'peg belay' on the 30 degree ledge. The chimney continues for another couple of pitches, before it delivers you to the sun, as you traverse the top of the Gendarme through a little gap. The far side of the gap was in the sun... At last.

Lena climbing on the final pitches before the scree slopes to the summit of the Pt. de Tsalion. The summit of the Red Gendarme can be seen proud in the background (a pile of loose blocks).

After passing the end of the West Ridge of the Dent de Tsalion, we descended to the Aiguille Glacier and the Aiguille de la Tsa. In the photo Lena can be spotted in the shade at the bottom.

The Aiguille de la Tsa.

Now starting our walk down to the Bertol Hut for an evening hut meal. This time in the afternoon, there was nobody else to be seen - anywhere... We had the entire range to ourselves, quite something considering that the Aiguille de la Tsa is probably the most popular rock climb of the Arolla region, and one of the most well known peaks in the western Valais.

Of course the downside of crossing a glacier at this time of day, is that the snow is very soft and the integrity of crevasse snow bridges is doubtful - so we took care over about 10 soft bridges.

The small col W of Pt. 3372m on the ENE ridge of the Pt de Bertol. About to drop down towards to Hut.

The hut was fairly busy, but now for 2011 they have opened their new toilet block, which is VERY impressive and modern except for the processing of men's wee! - It's just fed down a 10m pipe, causing the whole cliff to smell, until for the rain! Above is the West view of the Bertol Hut, the next morning. The hut can only be accessed from the E or W via a series of ladders. The hut stands exposed at 3311m on a shoulder of the Clocher de Bertol.

Satarma Needle

2011-08-24T07:27:00.001-07:00

We had a couple of hours to kill, so we went looking for the Satarma Needle near Arolla. It was easy but entertaining. The guide book says you need a couple of slings and some nuts, but there are 5 bolts en route and a mass of bolts at the top, so little is needed.

Here is Lena Brune hanging about in the sun, on the ab down. After this we packed bags for a bigger climb, out of Arolla, and some more fun in the sun - the weather was set to hold for a couple more days...

Left Edge, Contamine -Grisolle, Mont Blanc du Tacul

2011-08-24T06:18:00.000-07:00

Matt, Lena and I headed up the Aiguille du Midi telepherique with the intention of climbing the Left Edge on Mont Blanc du Tacul, our second climb as a rope of 3. As usual it was CRAZY busy in the bins to the top, and there was all the normal madness on the snow ridge heading down to the Vallee Blanche.

We timed our descent down the ridge to miss most of the groups.

This wasn't the clear and bright weather day that we were forecast! Clouds!

Trails of ants leading off in all directions.

Vallee Blanche with the normal 'campsite' seen on the right hand side. Our objective just left of centre in the photo - the 'Left Edge'.

Ahead of us 2 teams of 2 high on the route, and a guided team on 3 just started on the route. We're about an hour behind the last team - the penalty for missing the first bin!

Lena having fun on the first mixed section of the route.

After a while the weather started to close in and the clouds were lowering, we made the difficult decision to ab off before we lost all vis on the Tacul. That's me above.

Matt abseiling down the mixed slot. As we started to walk across the Vallee Blanche, the cloud hit us and vis went down to 40m. Lena led the team into, and across the white. After lots of walking in the white room, we popped out on the other side of the Vallee, converging with other teams of ants appearing from the cloud and took our place on the ridge to the summit. As it turned out we weren't the only team to turn back due to the poor weather. I was glad that we made a timely decision. It was a great day. This was the end of Matt's holiday as he had to get a flight at 7.30am the next day..

La Joux

2011-08-24T03:52:00.000-07:00

We headed for this small crag near Argentiere for a chilled afternoon in the sun. Unfortunately lots of other people had the same idea and it turned out to be very busy. Above Matt Leggett is crusing one of the Diamant routes. Despite the crouds we had a great social sport afternoon.

Les Cheserys, Kinou Area

2011-08-13T14:00:00.000-07:00

We wanted some more sport climbing so we headed for a crag hoping to avoid the crouds. We went to the Kinou area of Les Cheserys just outside Chamonix. The team today was Alison Culshaw, Lena, Matt and myself. Above Matt can be seen on a route adjacent to La Julanie. After this photo his next pitch was a 7a which he faught up and Alison seconded with style.
Above Lena is leading Kinou pitch 1 at 6b - steep, fingery slab climbing. A great climb. There was nobody else to be seen on this crag - partly because there was NO path leading to it. I wouldn't recomment the crag unless you like jungle bashing and you're bored of good paths!! If you go, look for Matt's sunnies in the jungle at the base of the crag.. Something always happens when rapping!

Minettes Ridge, Aiguille du Peigne

2011-08-13T13:15:00.000-07:00

Matt, Lena and I headed out for the Minettes Ridge from the Plan in Chamonix. Lena led us up the direct start heading for 'the gap', crossing with the Normal Route. Here in the photo Matt seems to be having a rest from climbing for the photo.
Lena making 'the awkward step' round a corner.

Lena heading up the next corner.

Matt finding the way forward, and upwards, sporting his new Scarpa boots.

Matt making awkward moves look easy, questing for the summit.

Near the summit now - glaciers below.

After the summit, a quick few raps down, into the thickening mist..

Here we are making our way back to the downlift after a cold bivvy out.

Banks Of The Mer De Glace

2011-08-06T07:26:00.000-07:00

We headed down to the Mer de Glace to find something to climb, quickly before the rain sets in.

Matt running across the glacier - keen to climb.

Where we started our route.
Matt up pitch 1

Pitch 2 beofore the rain.

We tried for pitch 3, but it didn't really happen so we set up to ab off.

Me on the ab.... A good day.

Voie Frison-Roche

2011-08-05T07:52:00.000-07:00

Today we were forecast to have heavy rain developing from the afternoon onwards. So after getting up late (I'm on holiday!) we had time for a climb on les Aiguilles Rouges, on the Brevent. We headed for the Voie Frison-Roche. Unfortunately everybody else in Chamonix seemed to have the same plan and it was busy busy when we got there. We were soon in a queue. Luckily we weren't in a rush and we soon started moving...
Matt on Pitch 1

Day 2 and we've still avoided the shops - fantastic..

Autoroute blanche

2011-08-04T11:59:00.000-07:00

Matt on pitch 1

So yesterday I drove from La grave in the Parc National des Ecrins up to Chamonix, via Italy. I met up with Alison Culshaw and Matt Leggett. I got up late and headed into Switzerland with Matt to have a go at Autotoute Blanche. This is when I realised I was tired! Pitch 1 was wet when we did it, but dry at the end of the day as we abseiled down.
Matt
Matt sticking his legg out for dramatic effect!

Matt has been away from climbing for about 2 years and is loving being back.

So we both had fun on our first day climbing in the alps - unfortunatly just as the weather is about to turn tomorrow afternoon... I'll catch up on sleep then, or go shopping - there's always more gear to buy!!

Congratulations

2011-08-03T09:09:00.000-07:00

Amy, Emily, James, Chris

The day started well for everybody coming out of camp at 7am or shortly after. They only had a relatively small ascent to make today of a mere 500m height gain. Spirits were high, but the clouds weren't - there was a threat of rain. The rain never materialised and after a cool start the day soon heated up into another scorcher.

Peter, George, Jess (blister girl!), Izzy

George found this hat - and felt as if he HAD to wear it all the time!

Becky, Phil, Charlie, Tom, Mandy

This is at thre highpoint of the day - just another 11km and 600m descent from here.

Jess's incredible blisters ! (I've just noticed the fly on the blister!!)

So finally everybody made it back to base camp and so they had all passed their Gold Qualifying expedition. Congratulations to all. We moved on to the debrief and the presentations. It was about this time I found out about Jess's blisters shown above. She had done incredibly well to walk all week with these - done mostly on day 1. Massive congratulations to Jess for continuing with these blisters.

So the scout camp is over, and now the Gold expedition is over. Well done to everybody, and congratulations to Jason for organising such a successful set of events... Jason only has to plan a successful MIA assessment now!

Day 3 And 33 Degrees!

2011-08-02T10:50:00.000-07:00

The groups had a night out under a fantastic clear sky at over 2000m. It was a little cold for them however, so they were zipped up inside their tents early. So they didn't see all the shooting stars and satellites that we saw.. Some of them had a difficult night, with upset stomachs (!), and some of them had their first wild toilet experience! Most of them appreciated the beauty all around them. Here you can see Phil carrying the mini poo shovel on the outside of his rucsac, for fast access! After they descended from their camp they had to get through the town of le Monetier les Bains - on market day! So I made sure none of them bought the rotisserie chickens or ice creams on offer! Just pitta bread and peperami for lunch!

Whilst waiting I was watching all the other activities going on, on such a hot day!

Team Awesome managed to find something they were allowed for 2 minutes... They had to check the picture to work out what suitable face to pull! Phil wins!!

With all the teams safely through the town (sans poulet!) I had time for a little diversion.. I found a cheeky via ferrata set in my van and set off to use it... I headed for 'des Mines du Grand Clot' close to our basecamp. The route is 2000m long with altitude gain of 775m. The photos here show the fun little chimney section. Awesome...

I wanted to test my fitness because I'll be climbing with Matt Leggett in a couple of days, and he's always mega fit, so I ran up it in 75mins, and back to the van in under 3 hours.

Via ferrata quickly gets you to some stunning positions. However, I was doing this in the full heat of the day.. Phew! (luckily I never sweat!)

The view of la Meije from the top.

A great little village I had to pass though on the way down - le Chazelet.

On the way back to the van I was checking out potential for winter ice climbing in the valley! Here is 'Cascade de La Pucelle' - winter grade?

The groups all got to their night 3 campsite alright, although some of them are really suffering with their feet unfortunately. Generally spirits are high, and success is round the corner (quite a lot of corners!) for them all. The bags must be a lot lighter now, now that all that food (and tins!) have been eaten.

Let's hope tomorrow isn't as hot for them. They still have over 500m height gain to do in the heat of the day!

Wild Camp At 2170m

2011-08-01T10:48:00.000-07:00

Day 2 of the Gold Expedition Assessment started early in the dark, for us and for the groups. James and I got into position on the hillside and waited for the groups to appear.. Jason had to work on admin and difficult logistics. I had some time to study the wildlife, marmots yesterday, crickets and grasshoppers today.

The sun soon hit the valley and everything instantly heated up - sunglasses and suncream on.

Group 1 (Team Awesome!) had the great idea of taking a short cut to reduce the walk.. Normally a good idea, except when the path disappears and turns into a loose, steep bramble fest. I watched the group - ready to step in, but they did really well and found a good route through - with only minimal scratches!

Can you see team Awesome now, making their way up the hill?

I had some more time, so I watched a cricket having a great time on my sock!!

The cricket got bored, so I got it involved and it did my nav for me...

Yet another fantastic hot day..

George looking good, powering forward.

Tom found a different way up!

Charlie was soon behind... We later found out that his massive rucsac was mostly filled with food - which he promptly started to eat.

James.

So it was a great day and all did well. They proved themselves to be fit and strong. Their training and time in the gym has paid off. They did the big climb fast, and powered into camp. They were not all impressed by the idea of a wild camp, but we couldn't have given them a more beautiful spot. However, they clearly stated that they were looking forward to their 'campsite' tomorrow!

I was drawn towards a cheeky via ferrata in the evening, and got up and down in under half an hour..

La Grave To Le Casset Via Col d'Arsine

2011-07-31T08:37:00.000-07:00

Working with Jason, James and the Darwin Explorer Scout Unit on on Day 1 of the Gold D of E Expedition Assessment. We reduced the day down to only 21km but still with the big ascent! Here the first group is approaching the Col d'Arsine which is just over 2400m.

Views from the col... Dreaming of climbing!

I mistakenly didn't bring my guide books to read whilst I was waiting!

Thanks to James for these 2 photos...

Great photos of the Marmots in their home territory, waiting for us to leave!

At this point I was wanting my swim shorts... On the descent after the col we came across this amazing blue pool - nobody in it!

Peter, George, Izzy, Jess

Phil, Tom, Becky, Charlie, Mandy

Jason taking the photo below...

Chris, Amy, Emily, James

NO navigation errors today.. Well done to the 3 teams... They're well on course for success..

After the 21km the teams were relieved to get to the campsite (a real campsite, unlike the wild camp tomorrow night). Just after the tents were up the first clap of thunder came form a threatening sky - but I think it was passing by :) ... The teams were sizing up their evening meal and checking feet when we left... Tomorrow is due to start with another steep ascent -finally heading for an exciting wild camp under the stars ... Awesome..

La Grave

2011-07-30T13:11:00.001-07:00

Excuse the photo, but I didn't get a chance to get any of the awesome scenery today..

I managed to catch the 7am Friday ferry in Dover and so get to La Grave (1400m in ) in good time last night, ready for work this morning. I'm working with Jason Wilkes and the Darwin Explorer Scout Unit from the Solihull County Scouts. The 3 groups are ready for their Gold Duke of Edinburgh assessed expedition over the next 4 days and it is set to be challenging! Tomorrow they have nearly 1000m of ascent over the 23km day. I can't wait to stretch my legs... We had a day of planning and kit prep today, as well as a little area exploration. If I could have got here earlier, I could have gone on a local via ferrata (I'll try and make time for it this week).

Gorgewalking

2011-07-30T12:39:00.000-07:00

On Thursday, still working for Trewern OEC, I took the group gorgewalking to the Sychryd river gorge, as shown in the map above. Surprisingly there were not many groups there, good for me, but I think they may have all been paddling on the Wye - a very busy day apparently! So I had the entire gorge almost to myself.

The first small intro jump.

Crawling behind the waterfall to the second jump.

We did 3 jumps in all, but the group were left wanting more - awesome - come back next year.

So this was my last day working at Trewern. I immediately packed my wet stuff and headed off to London, for a quick few hours sleep before my 7am Dover ferry on Friday, for my journey to La grave, to start work on Sat am ....

Canoeing

2011-07-27T11:09:00.000-07:00

Today working at Trewern OEC we went canoeing from Glasbury to Hay-on-Wye... A really busy day on the Wye for centres, families and tourists.

Sun, Sun, Sun In The South

2011-07-26T13:04:00.001-07:00

Day 2 of working at Trewern OEC. Today we started with an introduction to climbing - bouldering and bottom roping. Everybody quickly got into it and moved through the problems. By the end they were creating their own problems and we finished with them definitely wanting more.
In the second half of the day we went for a mountain walk going up Red Gully initially, then moving up to Twmpa (Lord Hereford's Knob). Everybody is now really looknig forward to canoeing and gorge walking over the next 2 days.

Trewern OEC

2011-07-25T14:08:00.001-07:00

This week I'm working at Trewern Outdoor Education Centre in Hay-on-Wye. Today I took a group of Police Cadets caving at Porth yr Ogof - a wet, fun filled day of squeezing, squirming and swimming... Awesome...

The Challenge At Outward Bound

2011-07-22T01:49:00.000-07:00

This week I was working at Outward Bound in Scotland and the course was 'The Challenge'.. The post year 11 students were from Manchester this week and we definitely had a lot to stretch them with this week. We started with climbing, abseiling and scrambling in Glen Nevis, above.

On the rock day I worked with John Cuthbertson from Snowgoose Mountain Centre. John also used to work at Outward Bound. He also used to work on Gower in South Wales, so we talked about our favourite sea cliff climbs.

Steall Falls on day 1 of our 2 day expedition.

The southern side of Ben Nevis. Carn Dearg nearly visible in the swirling mist on the left.

On day 1 of our exped we crossed the wire bridge over the 'Water of Nevis'. Two winters ago this river was frozen (when we were all climbing Steall Falls) and I walked across.

Paul, the senior mentor for the team, was the last to cross.

Binnein Beag visible on the southern side of Glen Nevis, as we were on our ascent of Meall Cumhann on the northern side - With Ben Nevis further north of us.

After the exped, we got back to the centre and went on our water day which was gorge walking in the Dubh Lighe near Glenfinnan. An awesome day of gorge walking with jumps, slides and sumps! I even got to practice my forward flips and backflips (not perfected yet - still turns into a face plant!).

So a great week comes to an end and they move onto their next adventure in week 2 of 'The Challenge'. Next week I hope to be have an adventure somewhere too... I'll probably be caving in Porth yr Ogof, and climbing in Morlais Quarry!

Flip Flops On The Ben

2011-07-15T08:46:00.000-07:00

On Thursday I was working for West Coast Mountain Guides. I was working alongside Seoras Lindsay and we were on our way up the Tourist Track on Ben Nevis with the 2011 Smithers Fund raising team from Poole.

Seoras, the team of 14 and I got on our way at about 8.30am . As usual the track was busy all the way up and the way down. At an early stage Lisa's boots started to deteriorate and the sole was falling off in chunks!

Just before the soles completely wore through to her feet, Lisa came up with the genius idea of strapping a pair of flip flops (that she happened to have with her in her bag!) to the base of her shoes - kept in place by a spare pair of socks and her original socks pulled down - original and it worked!!

For the first half of the climb we were below the gathering clouds and the views were terrific.

The cloud had descended and by the time we had reached the snow we were fully enveloped.

All 14 successfully reached the summit and normal celebrations commenced...

Celebrations with beer and chocolate!!

A summer view of the very steep slabby face of Indicator Wall on the side of Gardyloo Gully. Gardyloo gully was originally called Tin Can Gully and used as a rubbish chute for the old Observatory. The summit and the shelter can be seen behind.

The view from the top of Tower Gully looking towards the summit. Gardyloo Buttress visible in the foreground.

The full team of 14 reached the bottom of the mountain and so started the second celebration. Flip flops were still intact but some knees and hips were very sore. Congratulations to the entire team and well done to Laura for all the effort organising it (starting about 6 months ago!). What challenge for fund raising next year?