T-Shirt Climbing - NO MIDGES YET!

That's not a normal climbing move !

We had a bit of climbing in the Glen today - and afterwards I realised that we were enjoying t-shirt climbing with No Midges in late May - Fantastic !! Will it be a good year for midges? Let's hope...

Walk Up A Very Windy Ben - Cancer Research UK

We walked on our first snow at 1000m altitude, then it was soon winter conditions to the top, with frequent white outs.

Today I met up with John McVey and his team finishing off their 3 Peaks Challenge, walking to raise money for Cancer Research UK - John, Daniel, Katie, David, Andy, Stacy, Peter, Arwel, Mathew, Colin, Philip and Andrew. Today Ben Nevis was the last of their 3 Mountains, but they looked fresh and keen when Chris dropped them off this morning. We set off at good speed onto a dry but slightly windy lower mountain. The first snow affected the path at 1000m. The upper plateau was in winter condition with deep snow, whiteouts and a driving NE wind. The worst wind we encountered was in the last 100m push to the summit. I nearly turned the team around at 90m to go, but decided to go on. Congratulations to the entire team for battling with the last 90m, holding Katie down to the ground, for completing their 3 peak challenge and for raising money for Cancer Research UK.

Check out their blog here -  3 Peaks challenge 2013 for Cancer Research

With a stirling effort from the determined team we all made it to the top of Ben Nevis.

The snow level was up to the trig point platform

Finding Dry Rock On Skye

On our first climb at Meall Deas, Rubha Hunish, North Skye

This week I bought the new SMC Guidebooks for Skye, and we were keen to use one of them straight away, so with a packed van we headed off to try some of the Northern Skye Sea-Cliffs. We managed to avoid the showers yesterday and today and got some good climbing done on some remote sea cliffs. We were the only climbers any where to be seen, and these venues don't feel too commonly visited. We found some loose rock which was a bit unnerving, vegetated starts and ends, but some very good quality climbing. On the sea cliffs I was very glad that I had brought a separate abseil rope, so that the tops of all the climbs were rigged. The rock we found (a few times under lichen) was always rough offering hugh friction (I rarely used my chalk!). We'll be back :)

See more photos on my Facebook Page.

We discovered that there is a lot of loose rock, lots of vegetation at the bottom and top and very little evidence of traffic!

Some of the pitches were excellent on perfect rock

The scenery was fantastic with a good sense of remoteness

Lena perched at the top of the second pitch

More boring scenery!

Trying to find a way up a climb which has seen little traffic

Lena's turn on the lead

Loch Ness monster or a sea otter - brilliant

We spent today at Flodigarry, Northern Skye

A Little Dry Rock

Lena is happy to be on a bit of dry rock in this poor weather period

This poor weather period is a little irritating for people that have taken time off to go trad climbing, but a little bit of climbing is better than none :)

A slow start to Lena's trad season

Homemade flapjack

A little bit of rescue scenario practice, getting Lena in the mood for her MIA

Baggy Point last weekend in the Sun

This weekend has turned very spring like and rainy again - so the last weekend with all of it's sun and heat is now a million miles away (as was the venue!). Matt Leggett and I managed to make the most of it however with a long Bank Holiday by making a lightning trip down to Baggy Point. However, used to the winter weather I still packed primaloft, down and fleece - luckily I managed to remember sunglasses, suncream and t-shirts. This was the start to my 2013 rock climbing season, so I was still suffering from weak forearms and wondering where the axes were! Finally I got home last Monday with a definite sun glow, used suncream and sore fingers - fantastic :) . Thanks Matt for a great weekend.  Best wishes to Sam and Indi.

This is the last pitch of Kinkyboots on the Main Slab

The abseil down Scrattling Zawn to Chouinard's Yard 1

Pitch 1 of Kinkyboots

Pitch 2 of Midnight Cowboy

Matt easily making the initial moves of Kinkyboots

Matt Climbing on Baggy Point from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

Matt walking up and over the RHS option of the overhang (poorly protected)

Matt prepping to start Chouinard's Yard 1

Matt on the v poorly protected Chouinard's Yard 1

Matt on Urizen

Urizen on The Long Rock

Matt on Lost Horizon

Kinkyboots

Midnight Cowboy

Midnight Cowboy

Traverse across the Left-Hand Slab over to Ben

Ben

Ben Nevis on Tuesday 7th May 2013

Lots of groups are preparing to walk up the Mountain Track on Ben Nevis over the next few days and weeks - so here is a photo of the conditions on Ben Nevis at the moment. The is a great deal less snow than even a week ago, but still a lot on the plateau.

You can see some of the zig zags on the upper half of the Mountain (Tourist) track

Winter On The Cuillin Ridge (AMI Workshop)

The Cuillin Ridge in winter conditions

Association of Mountaineering Instructors - AMI

This weekend was a chance to take part in the AMI Cuillin Workshops on Skye. The workshop I attended run by Derek Bain, was to discuss working on the Cuillin Ridge Traverse in summer conditions. On Derek's workshop, besides myself were Monty, Iain and Karl. We knew there was still snow on the ridge, so we took our winter kit, but didn't quite know how much to expect. Saturday started with poor vis, but as soon as we hit the ridge, the mists cleared and we had a few hours of great weather and reasonable snow conditions. The weather turned at the end of the day, as the clouds descended again, and the rain started. The winds picked up through the night and Sunday turned out to be a very different weather beast - more snow and rain on reasonably strong winds.

One of my top dozen winter days this 12-13 winter season (in late April!). Excellent.

Loch Coir a' Ghrunnda

Approaching the Castle from Sgurr nan Eag

The Castle

Starting the traverse to Sgurr Dubh Mor

The scrambling is normally easy in summer, but under the snow and ice a great deal of care was needed

Some steep wintery scrambling

Sgurr nan Eag was really popular on Saturday with 10-15 people on the tops

See our footprints on the left of shot. The snow made a little of the going easier, freezing the loose boulders/scree together

Gars-bheinn to Sgurr nan Eag

Sgurr Alasdair to the middle of the ridge

The end of the ridge to Sgurr nan Gillean

Firm snow up to Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn

Up to Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn, from Sgurr Dugh Mor from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

A look around at the Cuillin Ridge from the top of Sgurr Dubh as Da Bheinn from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

One of the ridges bivvy spots - some snow clearing needed!

Thank you Derek B., Sandy P., and AMI.