Jet Stream/Direct Finish

Lena on pitch 1 of Jet Stream

I went to Aonach Mor today with Lena, to see what could be climbed in these thawing conditions. We avoided the crowds of climbers on the East Face today by tactically getting a 10.15am Gondola (aka - starting late!). Everybody seemed to be having fun on Jet Stream over the last few days, so today maybe it would be our turn. We nipped down the Climber's Col and headed for Jet Stream and saw Kenny at the top of pitch 1. Almost perfect timing.

On the walk across the tops, we had seen teams topping out from Left Twin and The Split.

Lena about to do the steep last bit of pitch 1.
Kenny Grant's climbing partner (Gordon) starting on pitch 2 above.

Lena set off up the first pitch. The ice was initially a little cruddy, but then firmed up and took screws. It was a little thin in places, but there was a great deal of fat ice still, even after all the recent ascents. It was thawing, but perhaps only slowly.

Lena about to top out on pitch 3

We swapped leads and we took the Direct Finish (IV,5***) option. The ice was good, taking screws, a little cruddy around rocks where it had melted back, but still terrific climbing. The neve was softening but still firmly holding the axes and the ice felt a little chewy. Pitch 3 was Lena's to top out, and the snow on the cornice exit was just firm enough to make life straighforward.

There is still rime ice holding onto the danger sign at the top of the cliff

North Buttress Route (III*) has ice and looks inviting, to the right of Jet Stream

North Buttress Route did look inviting, but on the walk across the tops, I did not notice if it had a friendly cornice exit.

We had time at the bottom of Jet Stream to look at the ice formations on the right hand side - which were visibly dripping!

Glencoe

Looking down into Lost Valley and Glencoe

I was out for a walk today with Lena in Glencoe. We headed up Lost Valley towards the Minor Buttress. There were a lot of people about, being a half term week. The snow was soft all the way to the summits and the black cliffs were dripping. There was hardly any wind and we didn't see any of the forecast drizzle.

Lost Valley Minor Buttress - Bidean Nam Bian/East

We were heading for Right-hand Gully (I/II), to the side of the Lost Valley Minor Buttress. There are now only bits and pieces of ice hanging onto the icy lines.

Looking East towards Stob Coire Sgreamhach, and the Buachailles beyond

We walked up to Bidean Nam Bian in near zero wind with an excellent view of Loch Etive.

Church Door Buttress is black and wet

We took a look in Central Gully to add interest to our walk to Glencoe. The Buttresses are black and almost ice free. We found one team going up Central Gully.

Diamond and Church Door Buttresses - Bidean Nam Bian/West

Stob Coire Nam Beith - showing Central Gully and Deep-Cut Chimney

We found ice attempting to hang in there on Stob Coire Nam Beith on Central Gully and Deep-Cut Chimney.

The best climbing is definitely on the Ben at the moment with people on climbs such as Cascade, Green, No3 Gully Buttress, Thompson's and Ledge today (among others). There were also careful climbing teams out there on the East Face of Aonach Mor.

Lena walking into Glencoe

South-West Ridge

Andy and Nic

Jagged Globe Winter Mountaineering

Today on the last day of the Winter Mountaineering course, Nic and Andy wanted a climbing challenge, so we headed to the South-West Ridge of the Douglas Boulder. The climb itself wasn't very wintery! I climbed much of it with gloves and the axes were passengers on the way up - but it was still great fun. It was more than Andy or Nic had tried before, so they relished the new challenge - and I hope it will be one of the memories of their week.

Andy Stotesbury's team on the climb ahead of me

Looking over to the bottom of Number 5 Gully on Friday

The Winter Mountaineering course this week was a great success, despite tricky weather and snow conditions. Good luck to all the participants for all their mountaineering and exped plans in ther near future, and Andy we'll see you in a couple of weeks on your Snow and Ice climbing course.

Curved Ridge

Lagangarbh and Buachaille Etive Mor

Jagged Globe Winter Mountaineering

Jan (who was with Jeff, led by Andy Chapman)

Today I was with Nic and Steve and we headed for Curved Ridge. When we arrived, the team already on the route were shouting 'avalanche' - and we saw repeated wet snow slides coming out of the access point to the route. This continued every 5 minutes or so. So we decided to keep to the left of Curved ridge, on the icy pitches for a teaching day. The snow slides continued throughout the day. Nic and Steve got a lot out of the day, but apparently we missed out of the stunning views that Mark Hendry and team were getting from the top of Stob Coire nan Lochan.

Jagged Globe Blog

Beinn a Chaorainn

Gary and Nic

Jagged Globe Winter Mountaineering

Today I was with Gary and Nic and we wanted a good day of mountaineering with a little bit of a challenge. We headed for Beinn a Chaorainn and had a great time. It was one of Gary's first ever climbs, so he enjoyed working out what to do with frozen turf and how to use front points on rock. Nic has recently done his Summer ML training, so he was up for testing his nav skills at the summit.

After a great day they both want a little more challenge tomorrow.

Ballachulish Horseshoe

Liz, Cat and Ian

The Jagged Globe Winter Mountaineering Course went to different venues today. Some went to Ben Nevis and we went to the local Ballachulish Horseshoe. I was working with Liz, Cat and Ian. We were lucky with the weather today, and I had to wear my sunglasses for most of the day. We were treated to some fantastic views - we could even see the Cuillin.

Cat and Ian

Sam Leary and her team

On the way down

The sun starting to set - stunning

Winter Mountaineering

Mark Hendry talking to the new Winter Mountaineers

This week I'm working on a Jagged Globe Winter Mountaineering Course. Today I was working alongside Mark Hendry and Andy Chapman. We chose to get a quick up lift onto the hill with the Gondola at Nevis Range on Aonach Mor.

The weather was fantastic. We went through a great deal of basic winter skills and introductory ropework with the groups followed up with an introduction to winter mountain hazards in the evening.

Turf Walk

Ed abseiling into Easy Gully

The Jagged Globe Snow and Ice Climbing course today headed for Aonach Mor. It was set to be a fantastic day, but still the East Face wasn't too busy. Again Easy Gully was very solid, making for an easy descent. As we got to the bottom of the East Face, the sun had hit the face and the ice started to melt for the couple of hours that the sun was on it. Ed was on Morwind and we opted for Turf Walk (III,4*). Mark Hendry went for Tunnel Vision.

Fred coming up pitch 1 of Turf Walk

It was great to be climbing in the sun - I only wore 3 thin layers, and thin gloves - I think we may have even picked up some colour from the sun - where's the cold, spindrift and suffering - that'll probably be back soon...

Tariq on Turf Walk

Fred and Tariq said that their favourite climb of the week had been Twisting Gully, so next year we'll try some harder mixed climbs, with interesting lines.

Adrian, Tariq, Jim and Fred

It was a great week for the team and a brilliant week for weather and conditions. Things are however now set to change.

SC Gully

SC Gully (III***) today

The Jagged Globe Snow and Ice Climbing Course today headed for Stob Coire Nan Lochan in Glencoe. Ed Chard did Twisting Gully and I wanted to do Raeburn's Route. There was a team on the route, moving slow, so I headed for a thin looking SC Gully. There was a team on it, but high up. I did bring screws, on the off chance, so I thought I'd take a look.

Some snow and ice from the higher team - a little hit Tariq on the nose

Pitch 1 was too thin for screws unfortunately, but there were a couple of hooks in the ice which were nice. Even though it didn't take screws it felt more secure than past ascents.

Tariq on the first pitch

Fred

Fred relaxing - but his calves working hard

Pitch 2 was a little rocky, but when there was neve it was usually solid.

Looking down after the rocky crux

The crux was rocky and not the standard grade III, but there was a clear hook, clear footholds, and eventually solid neve leading to the final ice line - but yet again, not deep enough for screws.

Tariq finishes it off

The exit was friendly on the left hand side. So, now Tariq and Fred have had 2 days of ice, and 2 days on mixed - what'll they choose for tomorrow?

Tunnel Vision

Tariq

Today was my first day of the season climbing on the East face of Aonach Mor. I was with Fred and Tariq, on the Snow and Ice, Jagged Globe course. We found Easy Gully in great condition, and the Gully rim was solid. Walking across the bases of the climbs we could easily see the tops of the climbs and saw that many climbs had safe cornice exits (possibly from heavy weekend traffic?). Scott just was just ahead of me at Tunnel Vision, and we both had a great time on the route. The ice was good and the neve was better. This is a great little 1 star climb. Lots of routes were being done today, including Morwind, Left Twin and White Shark.

Fred topping out at the end of Tunnel Vision

The best part of the climb was topping out, pulling over the edge into the sunshine - every day in Lochaber is like this!

Tariq finding some firm neve

Tariq topping out in the sun

Looking over at the sun and Ben Nevis

A spectacular day - they're all like this!

I did have sunglasses in my bag but, I was in the shade for most of the day - in search for the sun again tomorrow..

Tower Scoop

Today (Tuesday) I was working for Jagged Globe alongside Ed Chard on their Snow and Ice Climbing Course. We went to take a look at the Ben. When we got to the CIC hut, the wind was much stronger than we had expected and the gusts were quite powerful. We could see quite a lot of snow moving about and building in some areas. We decided to go into Observatory Gully, with a view to doing Tower Scoop (III**). We found the snow to be patched with windslab, but as we gained height the patches coalesced, but with careful route choice a safe route was possible close to the Scoop. The snow here was a tricky again, so we pitched up to the rock, and enjoyed 2 pitches on the Scoop. Topping out the neve was solid. The wind at this point was regularly gusting, and the snow into Tower Gully looked dubious so we decided to go down Observatory Gully instead. This was only a short ice climb but a great day out.

The video is poor quality but gives an idea that the ice is building. Point 5 looks terrific..

A quick look around Observatory Gully on the way to Tower Scoop from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

Twisting Gully

South Buttress, Central Buttress and North Buttress of Stob Coire Nan Lochan

This week I'm working for Jagged Globe on their 'Snow and Ice climbing course' - alongside Ed Chard.

Today I was with Fred and Tariq. who aren't new to snow and ice, so we thought we would kick the week off with a look in Stob Coire Nan Lochan, with a view perhaps to do Ordinary Route on Central Buttress, but I thought I saw people on it, so we went for Twisting Gully (III,4****) instead. Ed was in NC Gully with Adrian and Jim. There was a team on Intruder who had a good day, and there was a team on Central Grooves. I also saw Scott out with his team heading for the Summit Buttress.

Fred and Tariq in Twisting Gully

Twisting Gully was in great shape and had seen a lot of action at the weekend. The crux was fairly straight forward with solid neve about.

Fred gaining the ledge on the left wall

The neve was terrific on the entire hill. Even the cornice was safe today and easy.

Tariq on the same move moments later

There was a fair amount of wind today (enough to make sure the Nevis Range Gondola didn't run - causing a great deal of extra walking up and down for some teams today), and there was some transportation taking place.

Fred abseiling in Broad Gully

After a great climb, we had a mini abseil session in a secure Broad Gully. Just before this I had seen Louise Beetlestone lead the fine arete of Dorsal Arete (how many more times will she be up there in her outdoor career!)

Thank you to Fred and Tariq for great company, and I look forward to tomorrow.